Arriba Arriba

We are all up pretty early as we set of for the Mexican border. We leave Tucson after a few days rest and getting the bikes serviced and new tyres fitted. We are joined by some new riders, five who are with us for the rest of the trip and one just doing the Central America Section of the ride. Leaving Tucson in the early morning gets us to the border in a few hours despite a road closure on the way and a 10 mile diversion.

We cross the border at a quiet Arizona town avoiding the bigger posts that are full of trucks. The paperwork is relatively straightforward and within 3 hours we have cleared all the people and the bikes for entry into Mexico. We ride out of the Mexican side of the border and everything has changed. Twenty metres behind us is the USA. You can actually see a McDonalds sign. Yet on this side of the fence everything feels different. Wilder, more vibrant, less pre-packaged, this is the start of the Central American experience. The roads and the cars and trucks all seem to have been worn out in the USA first and then shipped south for a new lease of life with a society used to repairing rather than replacing.

The first days ride takes us through two military checkpoints. The army is made up of young men with M16’s and camouflaged pick-up trucks and they have an air of menace about them, but in fact are friendly welcoming and extremely courteous. They have a difficult and dangerous job to do, but can tell a group of bikers from the bad guys and wave us through after a brief chat each time. It is off putting to see Police and Army all wearing balaclavas to hide their identities but this protects them and their families from retribution and reprisal.

Despite what you may read elsewhere, if you don’t travel in areas advised against by the FCO and listen to the locals Northern Mexico is a relatively safe place to be. If you flaunt the advice, travel at night or don’t heed to the words of the locals then you are asking for trouble. We take the advice and our first few days in Mexico bring nothing but pleasure and excitement for the group. There are some great roads and great riding to be had, and to get to the end of a day and hear a rider describe it as “the best days riding I have ever had” and another “better than riding Laguna Seca” pretty much sums it up.

We venture briefly into Copper Canyon. The road now has 14 miles of tarmac since Trans Am was last here in 2009 and there are signs that there is more to come. We go as far down the track as we need to get a view of the canyon. Bigger than the Grand Canyon it is green and red giving it is name and it is layed out before us.

We are heading south through the central highlands when approaching us on our side of the road is a Police Pick up with all the lights going and we are being waved down. We stop and greet the two officers who seem to just want a chat and look at the bikes. The usual questions; where are we from and where are we going. When we say Zacatecas they tell us it is great town and seem to say there are plenty of girls there especially at the Teleferico (Cable Car) in town if we ride our bikes up there? A few of the single guys check this out but it seems it may have been a mis-translation. However the views are stunning – maybe that’s what he meant?

Mexico is in festival mood as it is Independence Day on the 16th and the people are already celebrating with flags on cars, concerts in town, impromptu bands and a party atmosphere everywhere. We are hoping to soak more of it up over the next few days as we will still be in Mexico for the big day itself. As I am typing this there is a choir performing in the Cathedral over the road and their voices are echoing around the central courtyard of our hotel. Mexico really is a magical place despite the troubles and stories.

As the sign says Viva Mexico.