Isn’t North the wrong way?

For most of this epic ride the route is South and More South. But on a few occasions North is actually the way to go. Leaving Anchorage on an overcast but dry morning is one of those days. We ride out of the city as a group with Fairbanks our destination for the night. The group sticks together to mark the start of the ride as far as Sheep Creek Lodge where we stop for coffee and riders set off at their own pace in smaller groups. Two years ago the whole area was wreathed in smoke from huge forest fires, so it is a relief to have uninterrupted views of the Denali National Park and Mount McKinley.

Before we left Anchorage though we were once again treated to the incredible hospitality of the Pterodactyl Bike Gang and the Alaskan Machine Gun Club. A morning firing everything from a Magnum .45 to a Tommy Guns, AK47’s, a .50 Calibre Rifle and a homemade 30mm cannon mounted on a trailer (all legal in Alaska!) is followed by a great barbeque at Chucks house, attended by a range of local bikers. Some are old friend and some are new friends, and we are grateful to all for their hospitality.

From Fairbanks we continue to head north to Prudhoe over the next few days. The Dalton Highway is the only road to take us up to Deadhorse and the most northerly road in the Americas. The Dalton is, as always, tough and terrifying when wet and stunning and rewarding when dry. We have a mixture of both on the ride north. Our overnight stop is Coldfoot Camp, now made famous by the Ice Road Truckers TV series! Their gift shop is now adorned with Ice Road Trucker branded tat, but they say tourism is slow even with the TV series. At Prudhoe, we are short of time and only a few riders make the Oil Field Tour with the chance to dip their toes in the Arctic. Otto climbs three steps to get a better angle for a photo and as always some-one shouts “jump”. He does, and lands on the uneven surface twisting his foot and heel. In some pain he is taken to and checked out by the Prudhoe Bay Medical facility. “Rest for a few days and see how it is” is the advice so he is in the van!

Now we start heading south. The ride back down the Dalton over two days is in better weather and passes smoothly. We stop at the Arctic Circle and also at Gobblers Knob which marks the official end of the Pan American Highway according to many, for team photos. As we come back past Fairbanks we swing into town to collect one rider who had been unlucky enough to damage his bike on the ride north and take Otto to hospital for a thorough check up. It is bad news. Multiple heel bone fractures, requiring an operation and 6 weeks recovery. He is devastated. We ensure he is set up in accommodation and in communication with the team in the office and then must say our goodbyes temporarily, but hope he will be back with us down the road.

We take a new turn for 2011 on this ever evolving ride and go to Chicken and on to Dawson City in Canada riding the Top of the World Highway. This magnificent dirt road starts in the valley’s following the river and then climbs to a ridge which it runs along for miles to the border. You really do feel on top of the world. The ride would not be complete without a stop at Boundary (site of the original border) for “The best coffee in Boundary”. Boundary actually only had three buildings to the whole place and so it’s not that big a claim! The coffee stop is decorated entirely in stickers and business cards of previous travellers, on the walls, the door and ceiling. Hardly an inch of space to spare.

We make our first border crossing, which couldn’t be easier or more courteous thanks to the Canadian Officials and ride on to Dawson. To get into town we must cross the Yukon River on the small ferry which chugs back and forth non-stop in the summer. Dawson City looks like it has just been dragged out of the Wild West of the 1800’s. Boardwalks on the sides of dirt roads and bars with swinging saloon doors are all authentic and not a Disney recreation. Getting in the spirit of the town most people visit Diamond Tooth Gertie’s Gambling Hall for the Can Can show, which is highly entertaining. Breaking with the theme there is also a very good Geek Taverna in town!

So we are one week into our mammoth journey. Challenging and eventful, we have another 18 weeks to come. Bring it on!