If you have had enough stunning scenery and visiting world heritage sites there is always the World’s Biggest Truck
The Mountie is intrigued with our journey. To be fair so is nearly every-one we meet. A few ex-pat British recognise the number plates, but most start by asking where we are from, then where we are going. At this point one of two things happens. When you say Argentina or Tierra Del Fuego either
a) they look blank, either unable to comprehend the journey or not sure what US state Tierra Del Fuego is in
or
b) they say WOW! and follow up with a whole host of other questions: “How did you get the bikes here?” Flew them into Anchorage: “How long are you on the road?” 19 weeks: “Do your tyres last the whole trip?” No – Our Metzelers are good but even they need changing en route: “Are there any ladies in the group?” Yes one riding pillion and one riding her own bike: And one rider was asked “Would you like any more ladies in the group?” However this was with a big chuckle and what appeared to be a brief nod to a wild and mis-spent youth. The lady concerned had also just explained that she eats at this particular restaurant because she and her friends get the seniors discount.
And so after one day packed with sites to see, we have another, although this is one of contrasts. Something for all the family so to speak. Three Unesco World Heritage Sites (including our overnight destination) and for those with simpler tastes “The World’s Biggest Truck” And boy is it BIG! And its Yellow! And its BIG! Our overnight stop is on the banks of Waterton lake at the heart of the Waterton Glacier International Peace Park which straddles the Canada / USA border. Deer wander freely through the town seemingly un-worried by us or the other visitors and the click and snap of cameras. It is a haven of tranquillity and we do our best not to disturb it.
And so we are already at our last night in Canada. With some symmetry our Trans Canada Expedition has also just had their last full day in Canada before arriving in Halifax. For them it is the culmination of an exciting and successful ride, but for us it is just the first country of many to come. A short ride in the morning takes us in to the USA at a quiet and sleepy border post. Sleepy until the final rider is asked to “Step into the office, Sir”. A few years ago he crossed from Canada to the USA at a land border similar to this one. Despite being admitted with no problem, somehow the US Immigration have recorded him as refused entry! They are therefore not that keen to let him in this time. However an explanation, the production of his old passport, a little Irish charm and after 15 minutes he is in. Hopefully this is not an omen of borders to come.
We ride on through the Glacier National Park on the famous Going to the Sun road. The road is lined with wild flowers and despite overcast skies and cool temperatures we are treated to uninterrupted views of St Marys Lake (Bit of a film star the lake – The Shining, Blade Runner (Directors cut) and Forest Gump) and of Logan’s Pass at the peak of the road. We meet two fellow Brit’s from Leeds on the road. They are cycling the circuit of the USA having started in New York travelling anti clockwise (I think?) They were as surprised to see us as we them. As they pedal away up the steep incline some of us feel a bit humbled, but it doesn’t stop us firing up the bikes and overtaking them on the hill with a cheery wave.
Overnight we are at Bigfork in Montana, The Big Sky State. Bigfork is an arty, hippy town on the banks of Flathead Lake. It has great café’s, a Museum, a Playhouse (closed that night) and an unusual bar that attracts unusual people. On a previous expedition we met a school bus full of teachers, all ladies, all in pink, many playing the spoons on a ladies day out to “celebrate summer”. This time as we are leaving one of the guys spots some ladies dressed as cowgirls, braided hair, Stetsons, boots the lot. Well we are in Montana after all. However parked outside (is that the correct terminology?) are five horses. These girls are not dressed as cowgirls, they are working cowgirls. A photo not to be missed, we introduce ourselves with all the subtly we can muster, as heroic overland bikers. So taken are we with the horses, the outfits and the opportunity for genuine cowgirl photos we fail to spot that we have just completely trashed the hard work of the two local lads who had clearly been chatting up the girls and plying them with beer all evening. After five minutes we wander away into the gloom delighted with the meeting and our haul of photo’s with just a slight feeling that we also need to put some distance between us and the two local lads who’s evening we have just ruined.
In our pattern we are continuing to head south now towards Yellowstone National Park, where we have two days to explore the park, see Old Faithful perform and maybe even get to do a little White-water rafting.

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