Sunday, 4 December 2011

Ushuaia – Fin Del Mundo


The crossing of the Magellan Straits is a major milestone. It is only the second ferry of the trip and the other was on our first day in Canada. The ferry runs back and forth constantly operating as a lifeline for Tierra Del Fuego. It is a very quick turnaround as the boat does not dock or get tied up. The Captain just drives it into the concrete dock and drops the loading ramp. He keeps it there with the engines churning white water out of the back of the boat and with constant adjustments with the side thruster’s to counter act the viciously strong currents. All you need to do then is ride up the wet steel ramp that is always moving slightly against the dock. It looks worse than it is and the transition is swift and easy. So swift in fact that they do not bother to tie the bikes down or secure them in anyway. Just leave them on the side stand and in 1st gear.

We disembark and remain in Chile for our first evening. The Island is divided between Chile and Argentina and so the following day is once again a border day as we cross to the Argentinian side. A few of the group take the opportunity to visit the Tierra Del Fuego, Falklands Conflict Memorial on the sea front in Rio Grande. Sadly it looks tired and unkempt.

We are stopping off just 65 miles from Ushuaia for the night so we can ride in as a group on this remarkable day. Our overnight stop is at the head of Lake Fagano. The mood is mixed. People are reviewing old photos, playing cards, talking, but it is all subdued. Tomorrow marks a huge achievement for every-one here, but it also marks the first end of this epic ride. For us it is has been our reality for 5 months riding our bikes in ever changing environments and countries. However other realities are starting to beckon. Some sorely missed; wife’s, partner’s and children . Some maybe less so; work, or job hunting or returning to the business that has allowed the time away.

The next morning the skies are overcast but it is dry and relatively warm. We ride out at 9am and make our way gently over the Paso Garibaldi towards the most southerly city in the world. However to remind us it is a small world we are catching an Iveco overland truck. It has UK license plates, and even a Welsh flag on it. We may be a long way from GlobeBusters home in South Wales but we are not the only people making this epic journey!

At Ushuaia we stop at the town sign for photos and then on into the National Park and to the end of the road. “Here ends Ruta 3” proclaims the sign and 20 metres further on is the ocean. Pacific or Atlantic? Fed from the Antarctic? The Southern Ocean? The debate wends on and we all hug, congratulate each other and the Champagne corks fly. We have 17 riders here, 11 of whom have ridden all the way from Alaska. From the Dalton Highway to the end of Ruta 3 in Ushuaia, but all have completed an epic journey whether from Alaska, Tucson or Bogota.

There will be a celebration this evening. There will be hangovers tomorrow. The next day we start 7 days more riding covering over 2,000 miles to get to Buenos Aires and our ultimate destination for this ride. We have reached the end of this road but the road ahead is still calling for another week or so.

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